Scrapbook Adhesives: Which Glue or Tape to Use Where

No single product handles every job on a page, which is why scrapbook adhesives come in so many forms. A tape runner that mounts a photo neatly will not hold a button, and the liquid glue that holds a button will wrinkle thin paper. Matching the adhesive to the material is what keeps pages flat and pieces attached.

Two questions settle most choices: is the adhesive wet or dry, and how much weight or thickness does it need to hold? Dry adhesives are quick and keep paper flat. Wet adhesives take longer but grip small, heavy or uneven pieces.

The main types at a glance

Adhesive	Wet or dry	Best for	Weak point
Tape runner	Dry	Photos, mats, paper layers	Slick or textured surfaces; heavy pieces
Double-sided tape	Dry	Long strips, borders, pocket edges	Hard to reposition once pressed
Glue stick	Slightly wet	Small paper shapes, light layers	Edges can lift if applied thinly
Liquid glue	Wet	Buttons, ribbon, intricate cut shapes	Wrinkles thin paper; needs drying
Foam squares	Dry	Raising photos and embellishments	Adds bulk to the album
Photo corners	Dry	Holding photos with no adhesive on them	Corners stay visible on the page

Tape runners and double-sided tape

A tape runner lays down a thin line of dry adhesive as you roll it across the paper. It is the everyday choice for photos and mats because it adds no moisture, so nothing buckles, and the piece can be handled immediately.

Run a line close to each edge of the piece and one across the middle. Adhesive only in the center leaves corners that lift and catch on the page protector.

Double-sided tape on a roll does similar work in a continuous strip. It is the better tool for long, narrow pieces such as borders and for sealing the edges of paper pockets, where an unbroken line of hold matters. The guide to making flat scrapbook pockets shows where the tape lines go.

Glue sticks and liquid glue

A glue stick is useful for small shapes that a tape runner would overshoot. Apply it to the back of the piece on a scrap sheet, going right over the edges so the corners are covered. A thin, patchy coat is the usual reason pieces peel later.

Liquid glue with a fine tip grips materials that dry adhesive cannot: buttons, ribbon, twine, layered paper flowers and narrow cut shapes. Use small dots rather than lines. A dot spreads when the piece is pressed down, and too much glue squeezes out at the sides and leaves a shiny mark as it dries.

Thin paper absorbs moisture and ripples, so keep liquid glue for cardstock and embellishments. Let wet glue dry fully before sliding the page into a protector, or the sleeve can stick to the page. Handmade pieces that need this kind of hold are covered in the guide to handmade paper embellishments.

Foam adhesive for dimension

Foam squares and foam tape are sticky on both sides with a thin layer of foam between. They lift a piece slightly off the page so it casts a small shadow, which makes a focal photo or a title stand out from flat layers around it.

Place a square near each corner and at least one in the center. Without central support, a raised photo sags in the middle once the page is pressed inside a protector. A piece glued flat next to a raised one gives the strongest contrast, so reserve foam for one or two elements per page.

Foam adds thickness. A few raised pieces are fine, but many of them across every page will make an album bulge. More on combining flat and raised layers is in the guide to building depth without bulk.

Photo corners and removable mounting

Photo corners are small paper or clear pockets that stick to the page and hold a photo by its corners. No adhesive touches the print, and the photo can be slid out later. They are the sensible choice when you must use an original print rather than a copy, or when you may want to remove the photo to scan it.

Corners remain visible, so treat them as part of the design: choose a color that matches the mat, or clear ones that disappear against the print. Mount the photo by slipping a corner onto each point first, then press all four onto the page together.

What the labels indicate

Adhesive packages often carry the terms acid-free and photo-safe. Acid-free indicates the adhesive was made without acids that can discolor paper. Photo-safe is the manufacturer’s statement that the product is not expected to react with photographs.

Look for both labels on anything that will touch a print. Avoid general-purpose household tapes and rubber-based glues for photos; they are not made for this use and can yellow or let go. Whatever the label says, use copies on the page where you can, and keep original prints or digital backups of irreplaceable photos.

Which adhesive to use where

• Photo to mat, mat to page: tape runner along every edge. Trimming and matting are covered in the guide on how to crop and mat photos.
• Large sheet of patterned paper to cardstock: tape runner or double-sided tape around the edges and in an X across the middle.
• Vellum: adhesive shows through, so place it only where a photo or embellishment will cover it.
• Buttons, ribbon and twine: small dots of liquid glue.
• Title letters and small punched shapes: glue stick or tiny dots of liquid glue.
• Focal photo or title to be raised: foam squares at the corners and center.
• Original prints: photo corners.

Fixing common problems

Lifted corners usually mean adhesive stopped short of the edge. Slide a little glue stick or a thin strip of double-sided tape under the corner and press it down.

Shiny smears come from liquid glue squeezed out at the sides. Wipe wet glue away at once with a barely damp cloth; dried dry-adhesive residue can often be rolled off with a clean fingertip or an adhesive eraser.